Into the mountains 21 - 23 March 2010

Just got back from the beautiful mountains of Sapa north of Vietnam visiting different ethnic groups...

Trip started quite surreally (just for somethig differnet for us) with our guide leading us down numerous paths before going cross country across the tracks to get to our night train. All seemed well - comfortable, friendly travelling companions, until about 2am in the morning when Mick tried to get out of the compartment and the handle fell off leaving us stuck in there! After much palava (at one point Mick threatened to break the door down) and numerous attempts by all of us we managed to be rescued....

After a very hilly ride arrived at our hotel to a huge crowd of travellers and hill tribe women all beautifully dressed in woven brightly coloured outfits and black hats. Set off on a trek down to the village with the women merrily asking us where we were from, how old we were, do we have children etc. Scenery was stunning, roling plains, terraced hills and a mistiness that gave the whole view a dreamy effect. When we were nearly there - mood suddenly changed when the women set down baskets and told us you buy now, you buy from me. This became a constant cry in Sapa - a definite side effect of mass tourism in a poor village. We ended up buying some beautiful things and continued down to the village - interesting but very much manufactured for the tourists before returning to Sapa. Met a Hungarian woman called Livia who wanted to buy a bedspread. We decided to head down to the market. However shopping in Sapa is very different to shopping at home. Firstly as soon as you indicate you like something its like a signal to every other seller to rush over and show you there version. At one stage we had every woman inthe market surrounding us with bedspreads and throws. I had to make a runner through a gap in the cloth to escape the throng. Quote of the trip was overheard by Mick: an Australian couple were walking down the street with the man being persistently pursued by hawkers at which point his wife turned to him and said "Dennis, I think its time to disengage". Most amusing.

Next day was much better - we trekked into a small village. Views were stunning and whilst there were lots of tourists and still the constant selling was much more genuine and interesting. Parts of the trek were very precarious - lots of uneven rocks and creeks but we managed to get through unscathed - in my case with thanks to a lovely H'Mong lady who must have realised I was the trekker with "special requirements' and helped me through (of course a bag was purchased in the making of my successful trek)

We stayed in a homestay in the village and spent a wonderful night with our fellow travellers shooting pool and discovering the local spirit, rice wine. Be afraid, very afraid. Very strong stuff that the locals make and store in water bottles - one 2l bottle costs about $1. Trekking the next day was diabolical (Mick's choice of words!)

And then we were back in Hanoi for our last day taking care of boring but necessary practicalities - bus tickets, posting stuff home and recovering from tired muscles.

Volunteer placement - 6 to 8 March 10

Arrived in Hanoi from Ninh Binh for our volunteer placement assisting as English teachers. Not off to a good start when we got into our taxi with British couple and soon realised meter was going at twice the normal rate.

The accommodation was grotty - our bedroom was a mattress on the floor and shared bathroom also was used communal laundry. Early morings are hard enough without people's undies spread out across the towel racks! It was like a very bad shared house without the fun.

Our nearest place for "time out" was the bia hoi (beer hall down the road). Decoration consisted of a stuffed deer in the corner and on tap meant a man sucking on a tube to get the draught beer flowing.

Last straw was when the dodgy manager knocked on our bed room on the second night with contracts for a different position that what we'd applied for - more hours and more responsiblity and asking for passports. Next morning we made like Bonnie and Clyde and left.